Move over rosé, orange wines are the latest darling of the wine world. Seemingly new, wine historians first attribute the birth of this amber liquid around 5,000 years ago in Caucasus, now modern-day Georgia in Eastern Europe. From there, orange wine migrated down to the Mediterranean through Slovenia and Greece and ultimately landed in the northeastern part of Italy where it became fashionable in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Not containing actual oranges, this naturally made, additive-free, and often yeast-free grape-based wine is made by leaving white varietals on their skins and seeds for an extended fermentation period to achieve an intense orangey hue and pungency. Popularized in the late 1990s by Italian winemaker Josko Gravner, “Ramato” (auburn in Italian) wines generally use Sauvignon Vert (Friulano), Ribolla Gialla, and Pinot Gris. Here in California, Napa and Sonoma winemakers favor Sémillon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Vermentino, Marsanne, and Roussane and are having fun bringing this little-known gem to mainstream consumption.
Flavor profiles for these bottlings known as “natural” and “skin-contact” wines can range widely, depending on the varietal used and length of fermentation. But one commonly agreed upon thread is its tannin-dominant profile: Bold and unapologetically dry. Many sommeliers say it drinks like a hefty red. The color can range from a soft coral blush to a brilliant orange, and its aroma profile circles scents of honeyed fruit, marzipan, lanolin and dried citrus peel. Natural wines tend have a sour palate flavor, sometimes described as sourdough bread or beer. If the wine has been fermented on the skins for a very long time, say six months or longer, then enjoying this tannin-forward drop is best done with food, just as you would with a big Cab and a juicy steak. Shorter fermentation cycles (under six months) can produce a less tannic wine with lifted aromas, medium palate weight and an overt acidity which is lovely for sipping sans food. If enjoying with a meal, think spice-laden dishes like Moroccan tagines, North African curries, Korean Kimchi, sauces made from Smetana and Lebanese Labneh, or a zingy goat’s milk cheese. Roasted game meats or grilled lamb are an excellent foil for this wine’s intense bitterness and astringency.

Explore Orange Wines

Given the time and skill required to perfect an orange wine, these wineries have done their homework and nailed it. Stock your fridge with any one of them (or all of them!) as you’ll be hooked on this “new” old wine before you know it. 

2020 Orange of Sémillon, “Brooklynites” $28
The Vice Wine |  thevicewine.com

Focusing on the diversity of Napa Valley’s fruit, The Vice Wine seeks out the unexpected. Using single-vineyard Sémillon sourced from Calistoga, their “Brooklynites” is an obvious nod to this wine’s firm foothold amongst the trendy drinkers of Brooklyn where Founder Malek Amrani travels to multiple times a year. This first-bottling of orange is a runaway success; plans are already underway for a second vintage. Structured with bright acidity, it’s full-bodied on the palate without being overbearing ……... pleasantly weighty. Tropical notes of papaya, banana, and ginger on the nose lead to citrus blossom and dried apricot in the mouth. Unfiltered and unfined. An excellent example of Napa Valley Sémillon with a twist.  

2019 Chardonnay Orange Cuvée, Laurel Hill Vineyard, SV $35
Mayo Family Winery | mayofamilywinery.com

Known for their unusual varieties like Alicante Bouchet, Tempranillo, Grenache, Barbera, it’s no surprise that Mayo Family Wines has introduced its first Orange wine. Winemaker Michel Berthoud chose 100% Chardonnay grapes for their first production, with future bottlings already in the works given its hugely positive response. Lifted floral aromas dotted with citrus peel segue into a nice ripe apple flavor balanced with minerality and a full-bodied mouthfeel. Wonderful umami notes of soy and dried mushroom soften the slightly bitter but long finish. Think Shrimp Po Boys, wild mushroom risotto or miso-glazed grilled salmon.  

2020 Kivelstadt Wayward Son $35  
Kivelstadt Cellars |  kivelstadtcellars.com

2018 Donkey and Goat Stone Crusher Roussanne $40
Donkey and Goat Winery | donkeyandgoat.com

Joseph Swan Grenache Blanc Cuvée Orange
Joseph Swan Vineyards | swanwinery.com