2007-02-16
 
Tasting Room of the Week:
BLACKSTONE WINERY
by Brittany Cohen
It’s simple, really, but charming nonetheless. If you want to drink good wine at a good price, go to Blackstone, the laid-back, easy-going, not pretentious, consumer-friendly brand. Here, high quality meets good value, a perfect pairing to the majority of the winery’s customers who know what they like, appreciate the price point, and enjoy the consistency of the wines.
Situated in a warm and rustic sort of “house,” Blackstone’s tasting room is light and open, with a small picnic area on the front lawn and a landscaped patio out back. Although a bit area-challenged, it feels homey; tables and chairs abound, offering plenty of seating, while olive trees create a peaceful ceiling over the outside tasting bar (open on weekends, weather permitting), and the heaters add a thoughtful touch. (Speaking of comforts, there’s a fireplace indoors.) “I love for our customers to be relaxed, enjoy the surroundings, and enjoy the wines,” sums up Tasting Room Manager Bradford Yoell, who himself appreciates the casualness of it all.
Downright famous for its California appellation Merlot, first released in 1990 when the winery began and now known as the number-one-selling domestic red wine in the United States at any price (“Even after the movie Sideways, we have no problem selling Merlot,” chides Yoell), Blackstone has begun focusing on Syrah the last few years, mainly because it’s not as limiting as Merlot. Able to thrive in varied climates, Syrah’s resulting diverse characteristics create different fan-bases. (Blackstone currently produces Syrahs from California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley’s Hamilton Vineyard, and Sonoma Valley.)
While the winery was originally founded as a negociant label, the French term for wineries that buy grapes, not owning its own vineyards allows Blackstone “a greater opportunity to seek out new appellations and obscure grape varietals,” says Yoell. Hands-on winemaker Dennis Hill, known to commence picking by the flavor of the grapes, regularly visits the vineyard sites, where he believes great wines begin. Some of the rare finds to be released this spring: Malvasia Bianca, one of Blackstone’s most popular summer wines, a floral, aromatic white with just a tad of residual sugar; Dry Riesling from Cole Ranch in Mendocino County, the smallest appellation in North America, crisp and refreshing and completely bone-dry; Dolcetto, a lighter-bodied red with bright acidity; Lake County Malbec; Tannat, a big, juicy, overripe red made from Sonoma County fruit; and Teroldego, a north eastern Italian varietal, dark and vibrant with moderate tannins. Can’t wait that long? Check out February’s reds: a delicate and spicy 2004 Sonoma Coast Reserve Pinot Noir, Clone 828, a rare Burgundian clone brought over to the States about 10 years ago; and an intense 2004 Dry Creek Valley Reserve Zinfandel from Mount Cypress with dark boysenberry fruit and a touch of chocolate. (Cheers.)
Working every angle, Blackstone offers its wines in three different tiers, or “series.” From the fruit-forward, easy-to-drink and food-friendly Winemaker Select Series made at its larger winery in Monterey to the more complex Prestige Appellation wines highlighting the best microclimates and soils of Napa and Sonoma counties and on to the hand-crafted Reserve wines of what it considers only the finest vineyard lots and barrels from California’s premier appellations, Blackstone appeals to the masses.
“Our customers want honest, good, fun, easy-drinking wines,” says Yoell. Come and get it. Blackstone, located at 8450 Sonoma Highway in Kenwood, is open daily from
10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Call (707) 833-1999 or visit www.blackstonewinery.com for more information.
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