2007-01-26
Coppola Opens
New Winery in
Geyserville
by Brittany Cohen
For Corey Beck, it was destiny. There was hardly a choice in the matter. It was what surrounded him growing up, what he took part in as a young boy, and what he continued to pursue as a young man. Having worked in the vineyards with his grandfather from the age of twelve, being part of a winegrowing family naturally led Beck to winemaking. He just finished his ninth harvest with the Coppolas (his first as Director of Winemaking at the newly-acquired, as yet unnamed winery in Geyserville, formerly Chateau Souverain), and still recognizes the importance of “find[ing] the next gem.”
Beck’s philosophy is that it all starts in the vineyards, acknowledging that because Coppola purchases most of its fruit (the Geyserville site includes 31 acres of grapes but they’re owned by Trentadue), “the grower relations person is key. You need to have great fruit.” Enter Lise Blair, Coppola’s Grower Relations Representative, and one of the five members of Beck’s winemaking team. Together, she and Beck search for the best growing regions in the state, acquiring new grapes and contracts every year from what they consider to be the best growers in those areas. “[This process] is very important,” Beck says. “We have a lot of appellations to choose from. It gives us more options, letting us be more than a Sonoma County winery.” The pair also make all of the picking decisions (of which most is done by hand) and routinely visit all of the vineyard sites. This “hands-on” principle is something Beck embodies, helping to ensure consistent quality off-site as well as on, where all production now occurs, including the bottling. His winemaking style is to balance good, soft tannins with the wine’s ability to age well, and admits that “production standards are high. It is very regimented,” hence the consistency. “The only difference [vintage to vintage] is what Mother Nature gives us.” 
Beck routinely performs different quality assurance tasks, one of which entails a sort of grower evaluation after every harvest. By sitting down together and looking at graphs of the phenolic data he’s tracked, he’s able to “show them [growers] what their grapes are giving us” as well as “explain why we’ll keep them or not. The growers are the lifeline of our business,” Beck states matter-of-factly. “We make it work for them. We compensate them accordingly.” He also conducts “a lot of cooper trials” in order to find the right barrels because “that’s how we learn.” Plus, he admits, “They’re fun!” Beck’s thinking isn’t myopic. He realizes that “the public may have different tastes than the winemaker,” and performs regular comparative tastings in the marketplace for this reason. “Market visits are important for understanding. You get good feedback. Your way is not always the right way. It’s an evolution.”
This humble, down-to-earth approachability breeds open communication, teamwork, and trust – a foundation for unlimited possibilities – modeled perhaps, by Coppola himself. “He’s 67 years old and is so creative and active. He’s always thinking, challenging the staff with different ways of doing things,” states Beck. “Francis is the creative backbone of the winery. [And although] all ideas must run by him first, he leaves the winemaking up to [our] team.”
Though Cab might be what comes to mind (it is, after all, Coppola’s flagship wine, strictly produced from estate-grown grapes at the original Rubicon winery in Napa Valley, an area known for its Cabernet Sauvignon), there’s really a lot more going on here.
Three different California appellation wines comprise Francis Ford Coppola Presents, each displaying a black and white photo label and retailing for around $10. The Rosso Classic, a blend of Zinfandel, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon, Rosso Shiraz, and Bianco Pinot Grigio don’t claim to be sophisticated, but are considered “good, easy drinking” and were created for the everyday consumer, reminding Coppola of the winemaking days in his basement.
Coppola’s wines, Rosé and sparkling Blanc de Blancs, bear the name of his only daughter Sofia, and debuted proudly in 1998 in honor of her wedding. (Don’t miss the convenient and oh-so-cute mini Blanc de Blancs, offered in tiny pink cans with straws affixed to the sides.)
The Diamond Collection, another group of California appellation wines, pays homage to Gustaf Niebaum. Each varietal (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Syrah, Merlot, and Claret, containing all five Bordeaux varietals) is associated with a particular color diamond label (yellow, gold, silver, red, green, blue, and black, respectively) and is often referred to as such.
In an attempt to intersect filmmaking with winemaking, the Director’s Cut series was created in anticipation of calling Geyserville home. According to Coppola, “Winemaking and filmmaking are two great art forms that are very important in the development of California. They both start with raw ingredients … The winemaker takes these raw materials and ferments and blends. He says yes to this batch, no to that one. The director does the same thing: a series of yeses and nos … In both cases you have to start with top-notch raw materials – whether it’s the land or a script.” All four Sonoma County appellation wines start with the 2005 vintage and are predominantly available at the tasting room in quantities of just 5000 cases each: Russian River Valley Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel, and Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (to be released fall 2007).
Francis Coppola Reserve wines, produced in 1000-case quantities, highlight different varietals only after having received Beck’s nod of approval for use of the word “reserve.” Every year, all Sonoma County appellations of each varietal are tasted among the winemaking team and the Coppola family, wherein the “best” is ultimately chosen and called reserve. Only available at the winery and online, current offerings include Russian River Valley Viognier, Russian River Valley Chardonnay, Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, Dry Creek Valley Syrah, and Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.
Coppola’s latest venture, the move to Sonoma County, occurred, according to Beck, because “it was time to move on. FFC Presents ties together the pasta company, the resorts, the magazine, and the winery.” While we’ll have to wait and see just what comes of it, almost anything and everything seems an option. Full of anti-pretentiousness, solidarity, confidence, courage, and adventure, Beck himself promises the new site “will be a destination spot, beautiful and special.”
In the meantime, enjoy the present facility, already flaunting a homey vibe, a bit of Coppola history, and a friendly and knowledgeable staff. Considered the intersection of art and wine and based on the principle of having fun with wine tasting, samples of Coppola’s foods, oils, pasta and chocolate sauces abound, from the throwback circus (animal) cookies to Mammarella’s pasta sauces, which boast a picture of Coppola’s mother on the label.
Picnic facilities beckon outside, calling for a glass or bottle to share, while the Italian family restaurant is open Monday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Sunday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tasting room is open daily from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. with a $5 tasting fee at 300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville (take Independance Lane exit); (707) 857-1905.
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