2006-03-10
WINEOLOGY Intelligence for the wine consumer. by Len Napolitano QUESTION: Why is wine aged in oak?
ANSWER: Aging wine in oak came about by accident. A few hundred years ago, before the mass production of glass bottles, wine was sold in bulk and transported in wooden barrels. Merchants, the majority in England, would then resell the wine, keeping it in barrels the whole time. Wood barrels were easy to move, by rolling them, easy to control their movement, because of the concave shape of the barrel, and wood was relatively inexpensive.
In the course of transporting wine across the English Channel, the wine would transform. A startling discovery came when people noticed the difference in the color, flavor and texture of the wine after spending time in contact with the wood. The wine also lasted longer before spoiling when left to sit inside a barrel and take in the tannins from the wood. Before long, wine producers realized the benefits of making oak contact with the wine part of their normal winemaking regimen.
Oak’s inherent characteristics make it the obvious choice among wood species. It is durable, yet can be bent into shape when heated. It has good anti-leaking properties, yet it allows microscopic amounts of air through it over time without spoiling the wine. When heated to high temperatures, the wood produces chemical compounds that elicit flavors of vanilla, almond, cloves and spice, all of which complement many wines, to one extent or another.
Today wine is not only aged in oak, but also fermented in oak. With a winemaker’s skill, the seamless integration of wine and wood can create an attractive taste and aroma. The drawback to oak in wine comes when the flavors from the wood overtake those of the fruit. Not only does this hide the true varietal character of the grape, it also creates clashes when trying to pair the wine with food.
Red wines that almost always are aged in oak include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, (and blends of them), Zinfandel, Syrah, Pinot Noir and Sangiovese. The most popular white wine to age in a barrel is Chardonnay, while other white wines may or may not, depending on the grape and style of the winemaker.
My recommendation for this week is:
Red:
South Coast Winery Syrah
Wild Horse Peak Mountain Vineyard
South Coast, 2003
This Temecula winery is one of many in the region producing excellent wines. This Syrah has aged beautifully in oak and picked up the best that a barrel has to offer while still showing rich, dark fruit – perhaps from being grown at an elevation of 2400 feet. $38
www.southcoastwinery.com
Eberle Winery Sangiovese
Paso Robles, 2004
Possesses a soft texture that supports an almost-exotic fruitiness. Hints of licorice and caramel. $18 www.eberlewinery.com
White:
Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay
Grand Reserve
Monterey and Santa Barbara Counties, 2004
A good example of elegant oak in a white wine that retains a lively fruit balance and can work well with foods such as roasted chicken and grilled pork chops. $20
www.kj.com
Send your questions about wine to: wineologist@earthlink.net
© 2005 Wineology is a registered trademark of Len Napolitano.
Wine writer, educator, and Certified Specialist in Wine by the Society of Wine Educators, Len Napolitano makes his home in the Paso Robles wine region, the heart of California’s Central Coast wine country.
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