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MONTICELLO VINEYARDS Easily Accessible
For the longest time, California Chardonnays have been boring in their
brutish attempts to out-slug on another with wines that showed only
exotic oak and palate-numbing alcohol. The results of that competition
were wines that were “interesting” (comparable to the “nice
personality” collegiate assessment of the opposite sex) to taste, but
required a real effort to actually drink. When we writers complained
that there ought to be some intimation of the fruit, winemakers began
to listen. Of late, they’ve begun to really get the idea.
Which brings us to a prime example of the new wave of California
Chardonnay: The Monticello 2004 Estate Grown Corley Family Chardonnay
($26) is a licorice-laden lovely, with plenty of pear...
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