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Wine Country This Week
 
 
2008-03-08

Mazzocco Sonoma

Riding High in the Saddle

The Dry Creek Valley stretches an arm eastward toward the Alexander Valley creating a natural saddle in the beautiful Sonoma landscape. It is on this crest we find Mazzocco Sonoma sitting comfortably on the backs of these two legendary wine valleys.  This family-owned artisan winery has the spirit of wild horses – a spirit running free from their mountainside vineyards into the barrels.  The result – the wines of Mazzocco Sonoma are a thunderous collection, rich and captivating.  
Zinfandel is the celebrated breed of Mazzocco Sonoma. With an avalanche of medals awarded at the 2007 Harvest Fair to this intimate winery – Chardonnays as well as the corral of Zinfandels – one has to track down the winemaker and put him on the spot… – “how do you explain that – is it the land, the grape or you?”  
Mazzocco Sonoma’s lanky winemaker, Antoine Favero, strides from the winery to the magnificent tasting room.  A gentle man as unique and captivating as his wines – Antoine laughs easily and graciously shrugs off compliments – “The only thing I can say is we’re riding high right now. I think it’s because our wines have personality.  How do I explain it – it’s the whole package – the vineyards, winemaking, our crew, the tasting room … it’s all come together in a natural, comforting way … and it’s inspiring to me.”
A winemaker is both scientist and artist – with a touch of cowboy and businessman.  Responsible for the management of the vineyards and crew, the long hours in the lab seem peaceful in contrast.  And at this winery, the winemaker is approachable, visibly engaged as he crafts the Mazzocco Sonoma label to a new level.
The Wilson Family purchased Mazzocco three years ago, built a state-of-the-art 7,200-square-feet winery on the saddle and then turned to re-creating the tasting experience by converting the tasting room and gardens into a rustic, contemporary lounge designed to best stage the wines. These landmark structures are embraced by the vineyards of Zinfandel laced along the gentle slopes of the east rim of the Dry Creek Valley. It’s an inviting and easy stopover on the wine trails.  
Entering the vaulting doors of the tasting room, Antoine easily chats with “guests” – before heading to his office upstairs. A woman from Oregon announces that although she is from the Willamette Valley in Oregon, a celebrated wine valley, she never liked Zinfandels. The 2005 Reserve Zinfandel Smith Orchard in her hand is spicy.  She loves it; can’t get over it. Antoine believes the spice is born into the vines growing peacefully at 2400' elevation. She responds knowingly that “it’s the terroir.” Delighted by and curious about her impressions, “Well, try the 2006; we made it from the grapes you see at this elevation and let me know what you taste.”
Mazzocco Sonoma’s grand tasting room, with its lounge spilling out from under roof,  opens to the vineyards offering an intimacy with the land which is reflected in the one-on-one nature of the wines. The taste of the Mazzocco Sonoma 2005 Zinfandel Home immediately settles one in to the bar while the 2005 Zinfandel Stone demands to be walked through the wall of windows, to the edge of the garden to gaze out over the vineyards.
A couple from Ohio lounges outside with their glasses – they want to make wine – where do they start?  It’s as if a wind shifts – the winemaker’s eyes light up and technical notes turn to a confession of his passion for the grapes.  “Walking the vineyards is the only way I know how to make wine.” To listen to Antoine is to discover how the land brings out the character in the grapes. Again, the word “terroir.” To Antoine, French-born and raised in Peru, the notion of terroir has special meaning.
As Antoine continues on about the land, the climate and the geology to explain the bond of land and grape – or “terroir” - which tethers his wines together, he stops abruptly. The smile comes to his lips and gestures toward the gallery of photographs in the tasting room.  Definitively, winemaker concludes, “…this is what it’s about.”  Happily Antoine points to the images of his wines against the breathtaking vineyards of Mazzocco Sonoma – images, created by Rob Scheid, which marry the wine to the land. “Now do you get the idea?”
For further information or to visit
Mazzocco Sonoma, check out the website www.mazzocco.com or contact the winery at


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