2006-05-12
by Christine Piccin
Delicate cheese blintzes wrapped in crepes and topped with blueberries, Texas-style French Toast, and inspired omelettes filled with local sausage and cheese – at Fumé Bistro, I found myself in Sunday brunch heaven. Sound good to you? Then head over to this comfortable Napa dining spot this Sunday.
Chef Terry Letson Chef/Owner every Sunday morning creates a selection of lighter lunch items and salads, including Fumé’s amazingly tender Dungeness Crab and Rock Shrimp Cakes, plus a luscious pear salad with maple-roasted walnuts and Point Reyes blue cheese. Breakfast creations run the gamut from the “amazing” Belgian waffles to “roast beef hash” made with tender, marinated and grilled rib-eye steak. There are pizzas, too, including a breakfast version, all made to order.
And Fumé pays attention to the details. Tiny blueberry and poppy seed muffins that came with brunch were bite-size delights, and the coffee, robust and delicious. There is service to match, both friendly and attentive.
The stylish bistro couldn‘t be more inviting: three dining levels trimmed in warm woods add to the intimacy. A wood-fired pizza oven is tucked into one corner of the room and on the walls, oil paintings by Terry’s wife, artist Sheri Debow add a touch of whimsy. A bank of windows lets the Napa Valley sunshine stream in while, outside on the patio, green market umbrellas offer shade on warm days.
Besides the impressive Sunday brunch, Fumé cooks up lunch and dinner every day of the week, with comfort food specials on Wednesday nights.
Me, I can’t resist brunch, and Fumé’s special Eggs Benedict is my passion. Two perfectly poached eggs are served atop Fumé’s famous crab cakes and brioche, then draped with velvety Hollandaise. That is what I call “brunch heaven.”
Fumé Bistro, located at 4050 Byway East in Napa, is open daily for lunch and dinner from 11:30 a.m., Sunday brunch: 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. For more information, call (707) 257-1999.
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