2005-08-05
Todd Williams with his buddy, Hank.
by Nancy Gilbert
If you have any qualms about the distinction between “fun wine” and “good wine,” Toad Hollow Vineyards can help you dispense with them. That’s because Toad Hollow is dedicated to the proposition that good wine IS fun. Founded in 1994 by two good friends, Todd Williams (the Toad) and Rodney Strong (the Badger), Toad Hollow Vineyards is in many ways a tribute to Kenneth Grahme’s classic tale, The Wind in the Willows. The winery’s mission, as stated by Williams and Strong, is to produce high quality wines that are interesting, at a reasonable price. And Toad and Badger are making good on that promise, big time.
The winery’s production facilities and vineyards are located in the beautiful Russian River Valley in the west of Sonoma County. But you’ve got to really want to go there to get there, so the owners decided to make it easy for their friends and fans by opening a tasting room in the historic, charming town of Healdsburg.
Here you can taste all the delicious offerings of Toad Hollow without leaving the very civilized surroundings of this pretty wine country town. The tasting room itself is a little bit of Sonoma County: the beautiful bar top is made from the stump of a curly, old growth redwood tree, and the base of the bar is formed from the smooth round stones of the Russian River. In keeping with the whimsical nature of the operation, two stones that look like toads are hidden among the other stones in the bar base.
Ah, and the Toad Hollow wines – fun and good? Definitely. Let’s start with a surprise, a sparkling wine from the Limoux region of France, called Amplexus. This creamy, nutty and floral sparkler is excellent for an apéritif or dinner companion. And it must be a romantic wine, because its witty name, Amplexus, refers to the mating embrace of toads. $16.
2004 Toad Hollow Chardonnay – Chardonnay is the winery’s flagship wine, and no wonder. This completely un-oaked wine is both crisp and delicate with a silky mouth feel and flavors and aromas of peach and citrus fruit. It’s a pure pleasure to drink, and unusually affordable for a really good Chardonnay. $13.
2002 Merlot Reserve comes from the Richard McDowell Vineyard in Russian River Valley. It is an unblended, 100% Merlot that can rival a good French Bordeaux – dark fruit flavors, soft tannins, good body and smooth in the mouth with a generous finish. It is aged in American oak for 16 months. $16.
Non-vintage Erik’s the Red – This is a wine where blending went wild and created a yummy red wine that explodes in the mouth with rich ripe flavors and staying power on the palate. Eighteen different grape varieties are blended into Erik’s the Red for complexity that won’t quit. $12.
Toad Hollow also makes Pinot Noir, a Pinot Noir rosé, Zinfandel and another delightful sparkler called Risqué. With only six per cent alcohol and seven per cent residual sugar, this slightly bubbly wine has a honey nose, and fresh peach flavors. It’s a drink-it-any-time-and-love-it wine. $14.
Toad Hollow Tasting room is located at 409A Healdsburg Avenue, just north of the downtown plaza. It is open everyday from 10:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.-ish. In other words, if you’re still there at 5:30, the tasting room staff won’t shoo you out. And if tasting room manager Jeff Nagan is on duty, be sure to ask him about the very exotic photograph of him that hangs behind the bar. Ooh, la la! For more information about the tasting room, telephone (707) 431-8667. You can find distribution and wine club information at the winery’s web site, www.toadhollow.com.
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