2008-07-19
Tasting Room of the Week:
WHITEHALL LANE
by Nan Reiley
See, this is why Napa Valley is always exciting to wine lovers. On any given day, visitors here can discover for themselves another fabulous, award-winning winery, and Whitehall Lane is one of the best of these. The name doesn’t sound familiar? Well, check it out, because wine reviewers will make it a household word before long.
Whitehall Lane, owned by the Leonardi family of San Francisco since 1993, has focused since that time on making wines that come from grapes grown in the most prestigious of the valley’s sub-appellations – Rutherford, Oak Knoll and St. Helena. Proprietor Tom Leonardi Sr. set about buying vineyard property to support his ambitious winemaking program, and today the winery owns 110 acres of prime Napa Valley vineyards. In addition, the winery buys grapes from the cooler Carneros region for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. All vineyards are under the watchful eye of experienced Winemaker Dean Sylvester. His stylish, elegant wines let the quality of the vineyards soil and climate shine through to perfection.
A visit to the Whitehall Lane tasting room is the best way to taste these wines; case production is relatively small, and many of the wines are not readily available nationally.
The winery, low key and eco-friendly in appearance, is located a couple of miles south of the town of St. Helena, under the shade of huge, spreading trees. The tasting room itself is small and surprisingly minimalist-modern in appearance, yet warm and inviting at the same time. Turquoise and yellow walls, polished slab tile floors and an azure-blue painted bar are the chief décor features. Merchandise is at a bare minimum – mostly just some nice logo T-shirts – because this experience is all about the wine. The friendly staff will guide you through.
Many wineries can lay claim to producing one superior variety, Cabernet Sauvignon for example, but Whitehall Lane boasts major awards not only for its Cabernet Sauvignon, but also its Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Try the 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, blended with 10% Semillon for a richer fruit flavor. The mineral, grapefruit-citrusy flavors are crisp and clean with just a hint of oak from minimal barrel aging. ($16)
The 2006 Chardonnay from the Carneros region reflects Winemaker Sylvester’s sophisticated approach to this variety: less blockbuster oak and buttery flavors and more refinement, letting the purity of the Chardonnay fruit flavor dominate, with notes of vanilla and lemon drops. ($28)
Whitehall Lane red wines are equally impressive, but honestly, if you’re a red wine lover, you’re going to say they’re more impressive. The 2005 Napa Valley Merlot, blended with small percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah for complexity, has a full body, smooth tannins and loads of rich black berry flavors. ($28) Save the biggest, and maybe the best, for last. The 2004 Silver Anniversary Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon would make a very special take-home souvenir or gift. It is a huge, luscious wine, with black cherry, cassis, sweet vanilla and chocolate notes. It’s deep and dark and has a smooth, lingering finish. ($75) Note that it has a glass closure, not a cork. Whitehall Lane has begun using a bottle seal on select wines called Vino Seal™ to prevent any possibility of cork taint, occasionally (and unpleasantly) found in conventionally-stoppered wines.
Whitehall Lane’s tasting room is open every day from 11 a.m. to 5:45 p.m., and is located at 1563 S. St. Helena Hwy. (Rte. 29) just a couple of miles south of the town of
St. Helena. Tasting fees vary depending on the wines you want to taste. For more information, log onto the winery’s website at www.whitehalllane.com or telephone the winery at (707) 963-9454.
P.S. If you’re looking for a non-wine gift, one of the few items available in the tasting room is a “coffee table” book called Winery Dogs of Napa Valley, filled with photos of some of the most adorable dogs ever lucky enough to call Napa Valley home.
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