by Richard Paul Hinkle
One of the “job titles” listed next to winemaker Jessica Boone-Disney’s name on Armida’s website is that of “Card Shark” (it’s right there next to “Punk Rock Girl”).  After noting that her psychologist husband’s name (Disney) does not get them free ducats to Disneyland, she does admit that she is something of a competitive, go-for-the-throat “Hearts” player.
Born in Seattle, Boone-Disney grew up first in Sonoma, then Chico, and then came back to take her degree in zoology from Sonoma State University.  “I wanted to work for Fish & Game, and did so for six months,” she says with a sigh.  “I worked in their water quality lab.  But I had a friend who worked at Edgewood Winery [Napa Valley], and that got me into that winery’s lab for the crush of 2000.  I was completely fascinated – I knew nothing of wine, but knew how juice tasted, and that juice could become wine – so I stayed.”
Uber-wine-consultant Jeff Gaffner – then head winemaker at Edgewood – takes up the story from there. “When Steve and Bruce Cousins called me up. I told them that I didn’t have time to come work for them full time, but that I did know of a budding winemaker who would be just right for them. Jessica.  She’s a raw talent, a real hands-on winemaker. She’s a real sponge, willing to learn, willing to get her hands dirty, willing to get in a tank and shovel it out.”  Jeff is on-site once a week to guide Jessica, and always available by phone.
Armida – known for its geodesic dome (you know that principle:  “doing more with less”) – had been founded in 1989 by Robert and Rita Frugoli, who named the venture for Bob’s maternal grandmother, Armida Puccinelli. Five years later they sold to Steve and Bruce Cousins (the visionary Steve had done extraordinary things running Buena Vista Winery).  You could tell these guys were going to have a little fun with the thing when they created a bruiser of a Zinfandel, named it “PoiZin,” packaged it in a coffin-like wooden box and dubbed it “The wine to die for.”  Not to mention subsequent bottlings of “Sharkonnay” (aka “The Great White”) and “Surf Zin.” (In addition to Armida’s own specialty labels, Steve and Bruce are excited about their new business venture with Celebrity Cellars. Armida is now producing and distributing wine labeled for the Rolling Stones and Madonna. These collectible, limited-edition wines can be ordered on the Internet at www.celebritycellars.com or purchased in the Healdsburg tasting room.)
The current Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2004 Keefer Ranch ($28), is a beauty, with fleshy nectarine and anise up front, with oak toast and fennel in the finish.  Or try a real treat, the 2004 Russian River Valley Gewurztraminer ($19), bursting with sweet grapefruit and lively jasmine aromatics.  The perfect picnic wine (summer will come again, trust me).
You have to open up your spice box vocabulary to describe the reds Jeff and Jessica produce. The 2004 Bacigalupi Pinot Noir ($39) is a delicate, dried turmeric and mushroom-informed red, while the famed “PoiZin” 2004 is broad with plum, violets and a hint of black pepper.  There’s also the 2004 Tre Torrente Vineyard Zinfandel ($36), spicy with sandalwood and turmeric, and the 2004 Maple Vineyard Zinfandel ($36), lively with black pepper, sandalwood and tarragon.
Armida Winery is located at 2201 Westside Road, Healdsburg; phone (707) 433-2222. A second tasting room is located at 103 Stockton Avenue, Capitola Village in Santa Cruz County; phone (831) 462-1065. Both tasting rooms are open daily from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Check out www.armida.com for more information.

Related Information

• Armida Winery