2008-03-21
PRAGER WINERY & PORT WORKS
A Tasting Room Like No Other in Napa
by Christine Piccin
The garden path at Prager Port Works in St. Helena is one I would be led down happily. The path passes beneath a rosebush-draped arbor, winding its way through a lush garden and past an inviting bench. A sign along the way points out the winery, leading to a door at the corner of a two-story wooden building.
You open the door to reveal Pragers Port cellar before you, cool and dark in contrast to the brilliance of the bright, sunny garden. You are perhaps not sure where this leads, but you venture in, and are engulfed in the enchanting aroma of aging Port. A light at the far side of the dark cellar beckons.
Tucked away behind the barrel cellar like a secret hideaway, the Prager tasting room is comfortable, with photos and awards displayed, and currency from around the world covering every inch of the walls. Other visitors are gathered, sipping Port and chatting amiably. It has the feel of a private clubhouse, and you didn’t even need a password to get in.
It is obvious this is a tasting room like no other in the Napa Valley – there is no fancy tasting bar, no high-tech, audio-visual tour, and no pretentious atmosphere. If you thought drinking Port was a stuffy affair, visiting Prager Port Works will be a revelation. It is like stepping back into Napa Valley history, into memories of a Napa more focused on family and quality of life than on Wine Country glitz.
In this family winery full of charm, the Pragers have produced dessert wines, table wines and signature ports since 1979, when Jim and Imogene Prager founded the winery on a small piece of land off Highway 29. Jim is still involved in the operation, and Imogene’s hand-made caramelized walnuts are sold in the tasting room, as well as at local gourmet retailers. They are perfect served with port
The Prager kids – Peter, Jeff, John, Katie and Mary, along with Mary’s husband Richard – have taken over the day-to-day running of the winery. They can be found working as Port maker, manager, custom bottle etcher, label art designer and more. And you will always meet at least one of them in the tasting room.
According to Port-maker Peter Prager, the key to his family’s Port making style is the harvesting of grapes with the optimal balance of sugar and acids, perhaps little higher acid than many California Port producers. This results in a Port that is less sweet than many, allowing the bright fruit flavors to shine. Peter believes that when acids and sugars are in balance, Port tastes better. All together the Pragers produce only 3600 cases of their Port elixirs each year.
Royal Escort Port, Prager’s top of the line, is made from Napa Valley Petite Sirah and won Best of Show Dessert wine at the 2006 Orange County Fair. Aria is their best-selling white Port produced from Chardonnay and named for the Pragers’ first granddaughter. It has flavors of apple and hazelnut. Noble Companion is produced from Cabernet Sauvignon, and aged for many years to achieve a Tawny color. Tomas is made from traditional Portuguese varietals; Touriga, Tinta Cao and Tinta Roriz which the Pragers grow in Calistoga.
The family also occasionally makes Alyssa, a unique dry white Port made from Sauvignon Blanc as well as two styles of late harvest Riesling. Sweet Claire is a traditional dessert wine, while Madeline is a Riesling that is lightly fortified with brandy. These wines are also named for three of the Pragers’ 22 grandchildren.
In addition to Port, the Pragers offer a Port Chocolate Drizzle. This is a combination of two of the world’s most delicious flavors, and guaranteed to satisfy.
Visiting Prager Port Works is like discovering a hidden treasure – the vineyards, lawns, garden and cellar create a friendly oasis amid the hustle and bustle of the Napa Valley. It is so relaxed and intimate; you will be anxious to return. And I am not just leading you down the garden path.
Prager Winery and Port Works is located at 1281 Lewelling Lane, off Highway 29 just south of downtown St. Helena. A tasting of all their Ports and wines is $10, which includes an souvenir oversized crystal tasting glass. For more information, call 1-800-969-7678, or visit www.pragerport.com.
Prager family: Katie Rooney, John Prager, Jeff Prager, Jim Prager, Richard Lenney, Mary Lenney and Peter Prager.
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