2008-01-25
Tasting Room of the Week:
GRANGE SONOMA
by Charles Neave
The word “grange” in French is close to one of its English definitions, “granary,” though it can also mean farm, or barn. Today, if you drive through rural areas of the United States you will still see Grange Halls, where farmers gathered to promote the common good. At Grange Sonoma, set at the beginning of the Sonoma Wine Country, vintners have gathered to offer their wares – their wine – to the public to taste and to purchase.
These are not just any wines, either. They come from premier boutique wineries that focus on crafting premium and often vineyard designate wines of the highest order. While you might not have heard of the wineries until you visit, be assured that each will leave you with a lasting impression. An added bonus is that these are exceptional wines that, when you open a bottle for friends, will probably be uncharted and thus intriguing territory for them.
To be able to sample the wines offered at Grange Sonoma in such a handsome setting is an added bonus. As a friend who has visited often said recently, not realizing how close he was to the dictionary definition, “The wines are so good I would gladly drink them in a barn.” You, the visitor, will not be put in such a rustic situation, though the setting is definitely rural and, with all of the vineyards, certainly conducive to a glass or two of wine.
So what wines will you find at Grange Sonoma? Quite a few. All unique, all a treat for the palate.
Derbès Wines, founded in 2001, produces Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley and Chardonnays from both the Carneros and Russian River. Tallulah Wines is another family-owned winery that specializes in the production of vineyard-designate Syrahs and Rhône-style blends. At Enkidu, winemaker and owner Phillip Staehle, created his winery not just to make wines of distinction, but to get back to “working with my hands, to use all of my senses, and live and work according to the seasons of the year.” And to make wines that are enjoyable to drink and enhance life.
At Carica Wines which was started in 2005 by two friends, Charlie Dollbaum and Dick Keenan, their goal is to make Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah “of extraordinary character” from small lots of premium Sonoma County hillside vineyards. Charlie works on the winemaking side, using grapes Dick supplies the from his Kick Ranch vineyard. Charles E. Heintz produces Dutch Bill Creek Chardonnay and Pinot Noir plus Heintz Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah from the Heintz Ranch Vineyard – in the family for almost a century and nestled in the hills of the Sonoma Coast growing region.
Eno Wines is a boutique winery producing small batches of Pinot Noir, old vine Zinfandel, Grenache and Syrah from world-class and undiscovered vineyards. Pay special attention to their award-winning labels and evocative names. Each is said to express the unique qualities of each wine. More evocative wines come from Mantra. Producing Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Syrah, the wine has been called “sexy and hedonistic” by Robert Parker. No small feat for a winery of any size.
Rounding out this amazing list are the offerings of owner and winemaker Bryan Harrington with his Harrington Wines imprint. His grapes are among the finest from, among other regions, the Carneros, Russian River and Sonoma Coast. His winemaking philosophy for his stellar Pinot Noir is to use the best materials at hand with minimal intervention while maintaining the highest possible technical standards to showcase the sense of place from which the grapes came. In all, Grange Sonoma offers a great mix of some of the best wines from dedicated winemakers.
The tasting room of Grange Sonoma is located at 23564 Arnold Drive (also known as Highway 121) about 10 minutes from the town of Sonoma. It is in Cornerstone Place directly across from Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyard. They are open daily from 10 a.m. until 5 p.m.
For additional information look up on the Internet at www.grangesonoma.com.
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