2007-12-20

Quivira Sauvignon Blanc
Perfectly Paired with
Pan-Roasted Sea Bass
Occasionally as a wine-lover drives through the vineyard-filled valleys of Northern California he/she will be greeted by the unusual sight of a mature tree spreading its branches over the vine rows. Often the tree will be recognized as a native oak, or a youthful redwood that some viticulturist, years ago, could not bear to cut down when laying out the vineyard rows.
There is just such a tree at Quivira Vineyards in the Dry Creek Valley, in Healdsburg, although it is not a native. It is a majestic 130-year-old Black Mission Fig Tree that has given its name to the 18-acre vineyard in which it resides. The entire vineyard is located on the floor of Dry Creek Valley, in well-drained soils, and all the vineyard practices are designed to enhance the fruit character and flavor of the grapes.
Tasting Room Manager, Jeffrey Vakassian, chose the 2005 vintage Fig Tree Sauvignon Blanc with its unique flavor profile as the ideal companion for his Pan Roasted Sea Bass with Punjab Eggplant and Basil Oil. The delicate herb-brushed fish, he explains, shares complexity and compromise alongside the Fig Tree Sauvignon Blanc without losing sight of the natural beauty of either the wine or the fish. The lively citrus and fig palate of the wine plays off the spicy eggplant ragout by contrasting its peppery heat and cleansing the palate.
The aromatic nose of this particular vintage of the Fig Tree Sauvignon Blanc is derived from the addition of 10% Semillon and 4% Sauvignon Musque. Barrel fermentation and judicious French oak aging contribute to the signature touch of pineapple spice associated with grapes grown in this vineyard. Winemaker, Steven Canter, feels that other pairings with the Fig Tree Sauvignon Blanc work equally as well, and he particularly likes a light lunch of Boucheron cheese with fig jam and a fresh baguette.
PAN-ROASTED SEA BASS
WITH PUNJAB EGGPLANT AND BASIL OIL
Serves Four
2 lbs Fresh sea bass fillets or other firm-fleshed fish
1/2 cup Cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
2-3/4 cup Olive oil
1 ea Lime juice and zest
1 bunch Fresh basil leaves
Kosher salt, to taste
Ground fresh black Tellicherry peppercorns, to taste
2 ea Medium eggplants, halved lengthwise
1 ea Shallot, minced
2 ea cloves of garlic
1/4 cup chopped Spanish onion
2 tsp Tomato paste
1/2 Tbs Turmeric
1/2 Tbs Sanaam chili peppers, crushed (substitute cayenne pepper)
1/2 Tbs Coriander
1 Tbs Fresh thyme leaves
1/2 Tbs Sumac (Middle Eastern spice)
1 ea Zucchini, sliced thinly lengthwise
8 Tbs Verjus
1 cup Heirloom cherry and grape tomatoes, halved
Portion the fish into four manageable sized pieces and marinate in half of the cilantro leaves, 1/4 cup olive oil, the lime juice and zest. Place fish with marinade into a Ziploc baggy, press out the air and seal. Place in the refrigerator for one hour.
Pick basil leaves discarding stems. Fill a large sauce pan half-way with water and pinch of salt and bring to a vigorous boil. Prepare a bowl with ice and water next to the stove. Place basil leaves in boiling water for 15 seconds or until fully green and wilted quickly remove to ice water a quick chill for 2 minutes. Remove basil from ice water and squeeze dry. Place basil into blender and add 2 cups olive oil. Blend for 4 minutes, and then strain through a fine sieve and reserve oil.
Preheat oven to 400° F. Liberally oil and salt the eggplant halves and place skin side down on a foil-lined sheet pan. Roast for 18-22 minutes or until the edges are browned, eggplant is soft and the aromas are sweet. Remove from oven and slightly cool (keep oven on for later). Scrape the eggplant from the skins and reserve in a bowl. In a medium sautι pan, sweat onions, garlic and half of the shallots in a tablespoon of olive oil. Add eggplant, spices, thyme and tomato paste. Stir vigorously to combine to a paste-like consistency. Season with salt and pepper, keep on low heat stirring occasionally.
Preheat grill. Brush zucchini slices with olive oil and season with salt. Grill each side to acquire pronounced grill marks with a slight char. Remove from grill to a small bowl and splash with 4 tablespoons verjus. Hold in a warm spot on the stove with indirect heat.
Place halved tomatoes and remaining shallots into a bowl with remaining verjus, chopped cilantro, salt and pepper and olive oil. Toss and allow to marinade.
Place a cast iron or non-stick pan on high heat. Remove fish from marinade and lightly pat dry. Season fish with salt and pepper and sear each piece for 3-5 minutes per side. Remove seared fish to a sheet pan and finish in the oven for 10 minutes.
Set up each plate with a crosshatch of zucchini strips, a portion of eggplant mixture, top with a piece of fish and garnish the top with the halved tomatoes. Drizzle the plate with basil oil. Optionally add crispy leeks or parsnips to the top for a flavorful crunchy texture.
Wine Suggestion 2005 Quivira Fig Tree Vineyard
Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley
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