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Wine Country This Week
 
 
2007-12-06

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Winemaker Profile: Bell Wine Cellars

ANTHONY BELL

by Diana Greenwood
One of the most respected vintners in the Napa Valley, Anthony Bell was raised on a wine farm in South Africa, surrounded by a family fervent about the fruit of the vine. Every Sunday Anthony’s father hosted luncheons as forums for great discussions and wine tasting, sharing stories of his own ventures and leading lively debates with others as passionate as he. No wonder, then, that Anthony was drawn to the magic and pleasure of wine.
“I attended a dinner at Chateau Loudenne in Bordeaux in 1971 and tasted a Chateau Latour from the very early 1900s,” said Anthony. “I remember thinking that not only is wine a product of the vineyards, but decades of history can take place while the wine is aging and great stories can be recounted.”
Fascinated especially by unique characteristics in viticultural regions, Anthony began a lifelong quest to study and understand terroir, beginning in Bordeaux and the Jerez de la Fontera regions, and by 1978, he’d earned his Bachelor’s degree from Stellenbosch University as well as his Master’s from UC Davis. Today he’s been making wine for more than 30 years.
Long before it was fashionable to talk about the factors which play a role in differentiating one vineyard site from another, specifically climate, soil and clonal selection, Anthony did just that. Although he’s well known for his contributions at Beaulieu Vineyard where he was responsible for 15 vintages of the extraordinary George de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet, when insiders think of Anthony Bell, it’s Clone 6 that comes to mind.
The clone’s history is a long story punctuated with colorful details and personalities, and back in the 1860s, Clone 6 was sufficiently popular as to warrant bringing it from Bordeaux to Santa Clara, California. In 1980, Anthony, in conjunction with Austin Goheen of UC Davis, designed and conducted the first Cabernet Clonal evaluation studies while at BV, and reintroduced Bordeaux Clone 6 Cabernet Sauvignon to commercial production after 100 years of neglect in a UC vineyard.
Cabernet Sauvignon Clone 6 proved so promising to Anthony that in 1991, he produced Napa Valley’s first single vineyard, Clone 6, Cabernet Sauvignon. Since Anthony has always believed “wine is grown in the vineyard and winemakers are stewards of nature,” his attention to balance, fruit, and terroir is impeccable, resulting in wines that are sophisticated and graceful, with Clone 6 grown on the Beckstoffer Georges III vineyard in Rutherford, consistently a star. Clone 6 is also planted to a portion of the Spanos Berberian 30-acre vineyard on the very top of that pretty blue ridge you can see from the winery; an irresistible location.
Since Anthony only makes very limited quantities of his wines (Cabernet, Merlot, Zinfandel, Syrah and Chardonnay), inventory is highly allocated and sells out fast.  In addition to Clone 6, there are four other marvelous Cab varietals at varying price points that you must try when you visit.
The first is a proprietary blend of select barrels of Clone 6 and their reserve Syrah, called “Talianna,” after daughters Talia and Anna. Second is a reserve-style Bordeaux blend called “Sonnette,” a blend of the finest barrel lots of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Capturing the unique fruit expressions of the vineyards, this wine is luscious on the palate with excellent balance between the fruit, oak and tannins. 
Next is the Napa Valley Cabernet, a blend of four clones that illustrates Anthony’s continued work with small-lot, vineyard-designated wines. This wine is a favorite with Bell’s loyal followers and is priced in the mid-range for exceptional Cabs.  
The last is the 2004 Claret, a blend Anthony created from select barrel lots of wine drawn from the Napa Valley Cabernet. Claret is “the lightest, sweetest and most fruity of the Cabernets and has the lowest price point of all four.” Deep ruby in color, Anthony says this vintage is rich with fruit aromas of licorice, plum and violets. It’s lively and bright with toasty oak flavors supported by supple, elegant tannins. Excellent today, the Claret will reward those with the patience to cellar it.
Call ahead for an appointment and enjoy a private tasting of the Claret and other current releases in Bell Wine Cellar’s welcoming tasting room. If Anthony’s not pouring, he usually pops in to say hello.
Although drawn to the magic and a labor of love for Anthony, winemaking is year-round work with little time to play. “We love what we do and wouldn’t change a thing,” said Anthony. “But when we need a break from work, Sandra and I enjoy sailing on the San Francisco Bay. Mostly, we love to entertain at home, sharing a glass of Bell wine with the many friends we’ve made through our travels.”
More often than not, you’ll find Anthony Bell at Bell Wine Cellars, doing what he loves – crafting award-winning wines. The charming stone winery is located at 6200 Washington Street, just south of Yountville, at the end of a country lane far enough from Highway 29 to offer complete quiet. Open daily from 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., there is a $15 tasting fee that goes toward your purchase. Call (707) 944-1673 for more information, to make an appointment, or see the website at www.bellwine.com for tasting notes on current releases.              


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