Stolpman Vineyards is dedicated to winning over the hearts and minds - and palates - of wine drinkers. Founder and Owner Tom Stolpman takes every opportunity to introduce the uninitiated to the world of Syrah. With the perfect vineyard site and the passion of chef-turned-winemaker Sashi Moorman, the Stolpmans serve an ever-growing group of loyal converts.

When typical American wine drinkers grab a bottle of red wine at the grocery store, or order one with dinner at a restaurant, chances are it will be either Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot.

Then there's Syrah, that wonderfully complex Rhône varietal which, while appreciated within the wine industry, remains a mystery to most wine drinkers.

Stolpman Vineyards in Santa Barbara County wants to change that, producing heralded estate Syrahs that have been turning heads for at least a decade.

And the best is yet to come, promises Peter Stolpman, who heads up the winery's national sales and operations for his father, Tom.

"The critics have been floored by the quality when tasting futures out of barrel. Our customers grow more passionate about our Syrahs every year, as we're still a hidden gem in the greater world of wine."

Peter Stolpman said the winery's Syrahs benefit from the hilly Ballard Canyon vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley, where Tom Stolpman first envisioned producing world-class wine grapes about two decades earlier.

When he first purchased the 220 acres 19 years ago, there was no track record for which grape varietal would best thrive in the limestone hills.

Initially it was planted to Bordeaux varietals, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. A year later, Rhone varietals Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre were added.

Buyers were certainly more than satisfied with the fruit produced by the vineyard, but it soon became clear that the Rhônes - specifically Syrah - were something special. Subsequently, out of 150 acres of hillsides planted since 1992, 100 acres are devoted to Syrah.

Stolpman's Ballard Canyon vineyard occupies a valley stretching north-south, about 25 miles from the Pacific Ocean, which typically wakes up to cool, foggy mornings that retreat as a mid-day sun heats up. By late afternoon, cool ocean breezes sweep through and fan the valley until sunset.

"The 'hybrid' hot-cold climate allows the Syrah to express ripeness without tasting jammy and unctuous," said Peter Stolpman.

"The cold nights and cool mornings allow the grapes to retain natural acidity and structure," he added. "The resulting wine has complex layers of bright fresh fruit, backed by a lingering, palate-cleansing finish perfectly suited to enjoy with food."

Not only does the cool, north-south valley provide a magical climate for Syrah, the vineyard boasts soils recognized worldwide as ideal for grape vines. A slim layer of clay topsoil covers a chalky limestone, siphoning water away from roots, which search in vain for moisture and nutrients.

Stressed vines add to the wine's complexity, producing small grapes with intense flavor.

Other winemakers prize the Ballard Canyon fruit, although Stolpman now sells to other wineries on a smaller, more selective scale.

Further enhancing Stolpman Winery's Syrah production is an alliance with Pierre Rostaing of Domaine Rostaing in Cote Rotie, the famed Syrah appellation located in the steep gorge of the Northern Rhone River. Rostaing worked with Stolpman winemaker Sashi Moorman during the 2005 harvest in Ballard Canyon and Stolpman has since planted the Syrah clone found in Domaine Rostaing's vineyards.

Peter Stolpman said Domaine Rostaing and Stolpman Vineyards are planning to hold parallel tastings, displaying wine from the traditional home of world-class Syrah alongside wine from the New World's rising star.

Visitors to Stolpman's tasting room in Los Olivos can sample three different Syrahs, said Peter Stolpman, including the winery's flagship Estate Grown Syrah. The 2006 vintage includes a splash of Viognier in the "Cote-Rotie" style, said Stolpman, along with a generous amount of Grenache that winemaker Moorman added to enhance the wine's complexity.

Hilltops Syrah is made with fruit from the vineyard's ridges and steepest slopes, where vines each produce only a few clusters of fruit with a great depth of flavor. It is aged for two years in French oak. Like many of Stolpman's wines, it showcases the elegant, nuanced style that are approachable while still young, but benefit from a few years in the bottle. Both the Estate and Hilltops Syrahs pair gracefully with a good meal.

While those two Syrahs are suitable for cellaring, Stolpman is also producing a version of the varietal bottled under a Stelvin screw cap that's meant for drinking immediately. The La Coppa Syrah, said Stolpman, "is a great introduction to the line-up."

Stolpman Vineyards' tasting room is located in historic Los Olivos at 2434 Alamo Pintado Ave. It's about a half-block east of the flagpole in a red cottage with white picket fence. It's open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, closing at 6 p.m. on Fridays. Call (805) 688-0400, or visit www.stolpmanvineyards.com for more information.